A Taste of Summer
June 21, 2023
Peter Lauer, Riesling Sekt, 2017
Sparkling Riesling (dry!) made in the “methode champenoise” style from Weingut Peter Lauer, representing the Saar region, known for steeply sloped vineyards. Farmed organically, the Lauer sekt is made from vines in a windy and cool spot in the vineyard, and typically the last grapes to be harvested, sometimes as late as November.
If you like sekt, also look for cava (Spain), cap classique (South Africa), cremant (the rest of France, ex-Champagne), and in Italy, try franciacorta or a special kind of prosecco called “Col Fondo” - it’s the good stuff!
Christophe Mignon NV, “ADN De Meunier Rosé, NV”
Meunier is the “unheralded” grape in Champagne - far less famous that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Meunier is often used as a blending grape and finds its way into many non-vintage Champagnes. Christophe Mignon farms 15 acres using many biodynamic principles in the tiny town of Le-Menil-le-Huttier, in the the Marne valley - not too far from Epernay - a “big town” for Champagne. He’s also an inventor - he uses special farm machinery of his own design, and special soil treatments. Outside of the lab, he employs an impressive 1 person per hectare (~2.5 acres) - heavily staffed by Champagne’s standards. This wine is farmed from parcels planted in 1976 and is a 50-50 blend of the 2019 and 2020 vintages. If you like sparkling rosé some fun examples include the Pato family of Portugal - father and daughter alike. In Austria, look for natural wines by producers like Meinklang and Gut Oggau, and in northern Spain, Ameztoi in the Basque region is known for its amazing sparkler made from Tkalolina.
Domaine du Tour du Bon, 2022 Bandol Rosé
This is a classic summertime rosé – think Provence in a glass. Tour de Bon is an artisanal winery producing small production reds and rosés. This rosé is made from 100% Mourvèdre in the southern France region of Bandol. Aromas of clove, dried orange peel, and fresh strawberry burst from the glass. If you like Provençal rosé, the aisles in every good shop are bursting with ideas. But to give you a boost, look for Domaine Tempier, Chateau Peyrassol, and for “bigger” and “bolder” examples, look for the deeply-colored rosés of nearby Tavel.
Two Shepherds Grenache Blanc, 2018
This vineyard was founded in 2011 in the Russian River, and this fascinating white wine is aged for 3 years before release. Bright, fresh, complex on the palate, it shows how this Grenache cousin can also make great white wines. Fermented with native yeasts and aged in neutral barrel and tank before bottling. If you like Grenache Blanc, great places to look include the Languedoc-Rousillon region in France and in Spanish wine hotspots like Priorat and Rioja.
Georges Lignier, Borgougne Passetoutgrain 2021
Passe-tout-grain, is a Burgundian blended wine of both Pinot Noir and Gamay together, and a special value for French wines. Georges Lignier's nephew, Benoit Stehly now is at the helm, and he’s known for an elegant and smooth style. If you like Bourgogne Passtoutgrain, this is as versatile as can be - great with seafood like salmon, but also great ripeness and vibrancy to stand up to grilled fare. These wines are generally harder to find than their Burgundy (Pinot Noir) and Beajoulais (Gamay) siblings, but patience is a virtue.
Ridge “Geyserville” Zinfandel 2020
Truly California wine royalty, Ridge Vineyards began in 1885, when Osea Perrone, a doctor who became a prominent member of San Francisco's Italian community, bought 180 acres near the top of Monte Bello Ridge. Best known for Zinfandel, Ridge have taken the pre-industrial techniques and applied them in conjunction with the best, least intrusive modern equipment. If you love California Zinfandel, you can’t go wrong with anything from Turley, Ravenswood, Dry Creek, or Seghesio, to name just a handful.